Northland New Zealand, places I’ve been: Taranaki & Mt Egmont

March 12th 2012

Coming back to the west coast was our intention, we missed the black sand beaches. Drawn by the mountain aspect, Mt Egmont and the Taranaki region proven to be attractive.

Unfortunately our 6 hours drive was in a bad weather condition as we were approaching closer to New Plymouth, huge layers of cloud blocking the view, rain non stops until we reached the center. SeasprayHouse comes highly recommended and we settled ourselves right on the front room. I wasn’t too impress despite its rave review. The place is too obvious a converted big house, I think they should not use the ‘lounge’ and turned into rental room because you feel like you sleep in the living room too close to the street, could have been a common area. Yes the gas stove is professional but as cheap eats and travelers go, they wont make the most our of that stove – no banquet will come out of that place.

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Caption: Drive to Visitor Center

Patiently we waited for the next day, hoping the clouds would clear up so that we can pay a visit to the Mount. And it did! Luckily, even so it was not the clearest day in summer. Driving up to the Center, visitors park their cars and choose their walks. Unfit couple like us with no proper gears no way able to conquer the 8- 10 hours walk up to the summit. At certain point during the walk, there was even a danger warning. We were ashamed of all the old couples finishing their day walk and smilingly shared their wonderful stories. Haizz

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Caption: Mt Egmont covered in the cloud.

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Spider web and moisture.

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Caption: Mount Egmont Vegetation

In contract with the walk at the Coromandel area, the area up the mountain here is super moist, wet, damp, and muddy. I was intrigued by the vegetation grown along the walk. We did the 1 – 2 hour loop and listened to an old English couple to advance a bit further at the ‘base’ before the summit walk, 2 km from the visitor center.

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Caption: Morning at the harbour

Breakfast at Bach on Breakwater overlooking the harbour, seeing locals taking their boats out for a fishing trip while I’m enjoying fresh catch of the day – pan fried snapper on the simple mesclun salad, proper latte and a quiet calm water truly made the day. Some harbour visitors are already being extremely active, padding away on their kayak.

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Caption for below: I dont know why people eat the traditional breakfast by the sea, I would make a sea breakfast menu if I was a chef there haha

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Or better, fish by the sea, fresh catch of the day snapper.

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Apparently the region is not as popular with tourists as others, often overlooked by all other attractions which we find a bit silly. We really love the place, it’s very livable and have both of what each of us want: I go for the sea while my boyfriend prefers the mountain. Taranaki has both.

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Caption: I will be back to climb ya Egmont!

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Caption: View from far

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Caption: Leaving Taranaki Region

 

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Northland New Zealand, places I’ve been: Taupo, Desert Road to New Plymouth

February 21st 2012

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Caption: Taupo Huka falls

Từ hồ Taupo đến đường cao tốc sa mạc đến núi Taranaki. Cả hai đứa không ai muốn rời Coromandel, mặc dù không đi câu cá, một trong những họat động du lịch chủ chốt của vùng này, chỉ muốn thoải mái, ‘lười’ nằm trên biển, đọc sách, đi picnic, ra siêu thị đi chợ tối nấu cơm, sáng nấu đồ ăn sáng tại băng công. Đời sung sướng! Nhưng những con đường trên bản đồ đảo bắc đã bắt đầu kêu gọi 2 chúng ta.

Hồ Taupo rộng gần bằng cả đất nước Singapore nhỏ bé, đến Taupo nhằm lúc có sự kiện, cả thành phố đông nghẹt người, gọi mãi không có khách sạn nào, chui vào backpackers Blackcurrant.

We didnt want to leave Coromandel to be honest, although we didnt go out of our way to go fishing but we were drawn into the concept of being in a small town, near the city, doing walks and lying on the grass reading our books or chewing our picnic and having dinner at the lodge out in the balcony. Life was good. But the road was calling.

Initially we wanted to have options, I actually researched for the Desert Road as I remember in previous drive I was on the passenger side as always, on the way to Wellington via a scenic road it was desert looking. So choices were:

1. Taupo to Wellington via Desert Road

2. Skip Wellington and off to Napier Hawkes Bay – the region with 2 of my fav white wine: Cloudy Bay and Oyster Bay

Wellington was eventually out of the list due to a big ruby game, and from Napier to the west coast Taranaki region would take way too much of our time and we didnt have a lot. Eventually decision was made, we totally skip Welly and took the Desert Road to Wanganui for a break to lunch then to New Plymouth, estimate 6 hours drive.

lake Taupo, the biggest fresh water lake, or dare I say in Scotland it would be a loch, has the surface of 616 square kilometres, knowingly popular tourist and local location was in fact had a big public event is packed with families. Last min accommodation from all the travel books with cheap stays were fully booked.  Luckily Blackcurrant backpackers still available or if you have 1,608NZD to spend per night on accommodation, you can ‘crash’ at this properties below at the heart of the famous Huka falls just before you enter the Taupo Central City called Huka Lodge Taupo. If fishing is someone you’re after, on the way out of Taupo along the lake, you’ll find the trout fishing communities , perhaps the biggest, gather along some of the smaller places with camping sites available.

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Caption: Huka Lodge Taupo.

The weather was horrid, totally cloudy which beats out planned scenic drive, would have cost around 300NZD or so where they would take you around the lake and to National Regional Park Tongariro, the mount of Modor in LOTR trilogy. The park has 2 mounts to climb, relatively big size and great for camping – if the weather holds.

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Caption: A tiny part of the Lake, from city centre perspective.

We took the Huka falls walk, not particularly challenging and the fall was not impressive but do bring swimsuit when you get to the hot water area, much like Rotorua with thermal water and hot spring, you might find some young hot looking guys there taking a dip or families kayaking along the stream and camping. 

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We soon found ourselves back on the road again and heading or New Plymouth after a night at Taupo.

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Caption: Desert Road

While the thick cloud continues to cover all the sky and our view, we pursuit the Desert Road as planned. The GPS told us we were on the road so call Desert Road very early on from mid of the regional park. Local road authority claim its State Highway no 1, aka part of Desert Road, is the highest at 1074 meters above sea level, second only to the highest road in New Zealand near Queenstown (1076 meters) and you do see the changes in vegetation here. From green and farm land, the colour shade started to turn into yellow, golden, brown, alpine semi-desert where the military uses to practice their well military activities. Some road shoulders provide enough space for a short break for photo purpose. On a clear day, the view is probably better and colour of the desert would have picked up more, its dullness on the day we were there reminded me of Scotland. The straight road quite vast and awfully quiet, no sound of the sea, tree just cars on the highway doing 120km per hour.

 

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Caption: Desert Road closes in winter season.

Now behind us was the park and we were heading towards Wanganui for a short break, but before we now it, we were off to another lonely road, it was really is lonely, off the printed New Zealand map! Moto Moto, our nick name for the GPS Tom Tom decided to take us on a journey through Valley Road, a shortcut, not to mushroom like in LOTR. I was puzzled to find the maps dont match up. We we reaching Waiouru at the end of the Desert Road, going off State Highway no.1 to enter no 49, a sharp turn took us down a different path.

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Caption: Whangaehu Valley Rd

Valley Road was off my printed map, I was doubtful but not worried, we both seemed to trust the GPS and just stick to the guided route. There was nobody but us on the valley road until I counted 2 cars half way through the journey. It was narrow, very hilly, hills piles onto hills, sheep and cows comfortably gripping onto steep ups and downs pieces of land, road were partly unsealed and one side of the road was a volcanic aftermath green well valley. We were not sure if we are on the right way. No sight of any other 4 wheel drives but the occasional farm houses until an old man on his biking gear riding up the hill.

I was determined the Moto Moto was crazy. Extremely winding road with breath taking view and certainly noone can feel asleep on these stretch, there were parts I kept wondering what if there were another vehicle from the opposite direction, we would have the situation of 2 sheep trying to cross the river on that one way bridge.

Eventually the road joins the State Highway and we’re back once again onto the 100km restriction. When I google the visual for the road now, nothing really come up. It was obviously a very local route as we finally caught up with that man on the bike.

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Caption: When I relook into the terrain view, I realised it was pretty damn hilly.

Wanganui is not a city where you want to stay over, it is known for gangster and we didnt think the locals were particularly friendly. We continued to drive a much longer road to reach to Taranaki region on the west coast, New Plymouth was the destination, the cloud and rain did dampen our spirit. We arrived late but summer lights still on, we took a walk on the bay. It was a long drive and we’re back with the sea yet again.

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Northland New Zealand, places I’ve been: Coromandel Peninsula

February 15th 2012

Our journey down south begins. Passing through the Southern Motorway, a bout 2 hours away from Auckland is the wicked Coromandel Peninsula. My memory of the first impression a few years back was the extreme winding road. On my left was the sea, the wave and ocean, trees growing and bending down towards the beach, reaching out to those waves and lean on the bay rocks while on the left are the hill and Coromandel Range.

Now, those memories are relived with the constant iphone4 snaps.

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As you turn left onto the Coromandel road and start driving, the Range view begins to show, the road is quiet and narrow, here we go again.

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All the road allowed our view is the sea, a bit of land pointing out, while on the hill side houses are chasing to be facing the sea. This is where the local kiwi called their holiday batch, summer house. What a fabulous idea to live by the sea facing the ocean and your back to the hill. Almost my favourite location for a home.

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This is a one of many true tests of a good driver. The road is very narrow and not forgiving, also a frequent and only road for logging trucks, even parts of the road can only cater to one lane and of course one way bridges. I was feeling half scared half thrilled.

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Occasional road shoulders give us a glimpse of this rugged nature, a bit raw and untamed although not too wild but a feeling of hidden, closed in and almost isolated. Dont expect the ocean or that wave to be a Phuket sand, there’s rocks pieces along the shore. But when you do have the chance to stop at a viewing point, it took your well my breath away. As I stepped out of our Rav4, I just feel at ease, looking down and out onto the mixed landscape of the sea, hill, green and the farm land filled with those sheep eating away. This is worthy it. Sadly my Canon lens are not wide enough, but my eyes caught this spectacular view.

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The peninsula felt like a curvy part of one of North Island land that is proud to stand out and make itself noticed on the map. The area and region is known for being environmentally friendly and sensitive, scattered but not overwhelm with tourist like its Bay of Island ‘competitor’, the population in the small town areas are humble and almost no noise. We settle in Coromandel township with a center literally consist of a tiny areas with small shops. People here love to fish!

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We decided to take the comfortable lodge Anchor for our Coromandel stay. The manager/owner is a lovely lady who also an addicted global travelers, learning to speak Thai and super friendly. The lodge room has self-contained unit and a dedicated balcony where we have our little home-made meals. If you dare, enjoy your catch on a day out from the sea and cook it up! Coromandel town has a shop selling smoke fish varieties called The Smoking Company, our perfect lunch break goodies.

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The town is awfully quiet but plenty to do, walking track down to the Range is just behind our lodge and nearby beach is perfect for more walks while the sea calling for those baits experts. Dont eat anything at the restaurants in town, just go to the local super market and cook up something.

Venture out to other township in the region, we drove 40km to Cathedral Cove for a bit of a outdoor sphere. Walking track from high hill down to the Cove bottom is around 30 – 40min and it’s not one flat walk ladies, there’s ups and downs, steep steps and gravel surface. Down at the bottom is a beach.

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Caption: Half way through the walk

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Caption: Viewing point

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Caption: See the white big stone, the second one is the destination.

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Here is a cute couple strolling along, water down here is rough but white sand, no swimming guards to save any soul so people tend to stick closer to the shore.

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Caption: Haha, more tourists!

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While back on that winding land, the area leads you to mini attractions hidden away along smaller areas. The next big town after Coromandel is Whitianga township, much bigger than Coromandel. We were not interested in hot water beaches but one can visit and try to dig their way through the sand for something warm. We found the peace and quiet we need in this little area filled with nature and the ocean. The drive that make us dizzy physically but also amazed at what we saw.

Nature got us!

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