For a snap trip like what I did, 4 days is not really fair to a proper mosque investigator and explorer. Within the tight schedule, I managed to get through the 3 major sites in the previous post. My favourite is actually the New Mosque by the harbour Eminönü, the water front area near the sea where you’ll find the best freshly grilled sardine sandwich and a display of fishing lovers crowding the bridge surface.
Above: Galata Bridge. Funny the poster on the far side have fish in the ad? or at least they look like one!
Above: Cruising the River.
This is the New Mosque
and some shots of the mosques design within the area….
Above: washing fountain in the previous entry.
More details of the interior will be uploaded later. But there’s more one major Mosque I have not been to is the Süleymaniye Mosque
…Tulip Mosque and many others….the city is truly a central hub or all you Mosque need. All you need to do in order to enjoy them: a pair of your utmost comfy walking shoes, dress conservatively, a good eye attached to a good camera, an enormous respect for art, design and religion even if you might have preconception about Islam. Mosques of Istanbul will melt your heart just by looking up at them. You’ll come out more ‘mosque-ness’ than ever before.
Sky was just as dull and shady as when we first arrived. One thing struck me that the singing sound of the muezzin, who standing high up in the mosque tower, singing the adhan & calling their loyal prayers it’s time.
It was around noon, napping time. It was then the exact moment of 1:30pm on a Saturday, my nap was interrupted by this calling. It’s not just one by many, from all nearby mosques, all competing their skills to tactfully remind the prayers. They were really loud particularly if you’re staying in the old part of town, the area of Sultanahmet.
For first timers, it’s an obvious choice to stick around the major sight seeing area. We tried to budget ourselves but managed to get the room with balcony and view at Paris Hostel, literally 3 min walk away from the 3 main sites.
There’s a benefit at landing at 6am in the morning fresh into a new city, by the time we hit the town, ready to roll it’s 9am. Somehow the best breakfast at this time around is the traditional çay = tea, can be found anywhere from street stalls to small humble street cafe to extravagant hotels or restaurants across the city; served with a ceramic ‘coaster’ and always with caster sugar and a spoon. Hot normally, and in the tiny decorated glass. Turkish tea will give you enough kick to tackle one of the most influential and world famous mosques of the Islamic world.
Entering the Blue Mosque is a grand courtyard, with ‘Dome’ shape all around. The yard contains these massive columns that hold the round shape for the upper structure, which I suspect are also the foundation parts of the architek. Courtyard is huge which allows visitors to rest, pray or just simply enjoy and absorb the magnificent design. I notice, with another Mosque also that in the center of the yard is this area of washing. People actually wash their feet and face from the water hose, another fancy word fountain. Blue Mosque has a designated area for visitors only where everyone is required to take their shoes off and cover their naked arms. It does make sense when you enter the Mosque flooring, covered completely in carpret, though covering the head is not really necessary.
High ceiling, all made from stones keep the air extremely cool yet a feeling of respect, warm, and tranquil when I entered Blue Mosque. Although it’s daytime, the interior is lid up by these low hanging lightbulbs resting and shining through the glass cover, hold together by the cast iron or brass structure, much like the chandelier, but in the Turkish way.
Built in the 16 Century, most of the mosque ceiling was made from the prestige Iznik blue titles, hence the name. The area Iznik is much like the Bat Trang ceramic town up north, where its specialty is to create such beautiful materials which make up most of the city’s mosque interior.
Dont expect to see any real prayers or any authoritative like some churches, pretty much this is a visitor zone, which is a bit annoying as next to you are all these tourists, trying to nap away as many pictures as possible. I guess the locals like to keep their mosque free from the noisy crowd and our curiosity.
Aside from the walls and ceiling fulled of titles, tinted glasses are also used much like the Christian churches along the windows. Cant believe this Mosque is built quite a long time and still survived in extraordinary shape, unlike the next site I ventured to.
If Blue Mosque was grand and amazingly beautiful, then Hagia Sophia is strikingly magnificent and breath taking. No longer in use, Hagia Sophia is now called museum instead, a much abandon church in today’s Istanbul Muslim society. Older than the mosque, during 520 CE, it served as a cathedral for the Constantinople period.
For me for this building’s key feature is the contrast charcoal and gold colouring together with the giant columns and corridors with great intricate details.
Hagia Sophia is a true survivor as ceilings and walls have been partially damaged and for me a true grand rustic and ‘Gothic’ design and feel. The place is huge, big enough that despite all the tourists crowd I still felt like the place is too big to gasp. The building materials also create the feeling of Holiness, if there is such thing; a feeling of the mighty culture once dominated the land and some how the feeling of such greatness exude in the walls, ceiling, and the design of Hagia Sophia.
To reach the interior, visitor have to surpass the sloppy and ‘cobble-like’ pathway that challenge some unfit pair of legs escalating steps. Major conversation works are carried out to protect the site. Many of the wall depicting God/Christ stories with plated gold have been severely damaged and disfigured.
On the way out, the sun started to shine, I just can’t stop thinking that I’ve just been inside something that is just wordless to describe. The door shut behind me.
I tried to capture the turning of this modernity. A friend of mine is teaching all this Asian values, culture and Asia modernism/modernity at university for those who are about to embark on their communication journey. When asked on their view about the architect of the city esp the modern buildings, more on the aesthetic side, they really dont give a damn. Another friend of mine also think the smashing down the old building is a necessary phrase while the nation is fostering its development at a rapid phrase. She thinks, and I quote her, we – Vietnamese people have not experience modernity until now, so the city needs to turn its skin, putting on some new ’surfaces’ and without saying a word, should express the approach towards a modern world.
I dont deny the effort of thriving for improvements and enhancement, surely, some of the infrastructure aged real bad and they need surely a ‘facelift’. I just would like to see how its citizens go about this change.
District 1 is where most of this cosmetic surgery is being practiced. Positioned as the heart of HCM, representing the HCM image and reputation, it would be a shame to have anything that spell old fashion or ruined, run down, and anything relating to this ideal?
Among the standing tall…..more are being constructed….rushing to show off its blocky style…somehow they’re all very generic to me. You have a tall building, possible lots of windows and glass, somewhat rectangular, and straight up. Pretty much done with the architect, a concrete block, nothing else, nothing to it.
In the heart of the Nguyễn Huệ Boulevard is one of the ugliest clocks I have never seen, sponsored by ANZ, this clock is truly a beauty representing the power of say….the blind attitude towards culture and art, and design. Ah actually it’s none of it…nothing arty or cultural or has any design element to it. Yet it is situated in one of the main venue of D.1
Among the clutter, the low-roofed housing, the mighty hotel structure standouts, dominating the center’s skyline.
Among all these box blocks lie the little old ‘chung cư’, trying to survive, waiting for the day to be demolished
I dont think the ‘red flag’ will be able to save these apartments….soon Nguyễn Huệ could be like somewhere in Singapore or KL
Timesquare is an odd one….been there for ages it was pretty obvious the investors pulled out and probably run away together with the crisis excuse. Seem like the work is resuming slowly…with the Tôi Yêu Việt Nam billboard of Dutch Lady….it might give some blessing for the foundation block.
On the other side of Nguyễn Huệ….things are taking more time….the old block with dwellers living on top of the shops below….this actually very similar to the UK.
Just when you think there’s not much else you can do to Nguyễn Huệ….well cranes are all around.
Among all the horrible no soul, ugly looking building, there’s something I quite like…the new Bitexo…the only building in town with a different shape….not square! and a helicopter shape landing space on the top, imagine having an open sky bar party up there….or rock band performance….pretty wicked.
Also the glass building behind the old french colonial style government place…also interesting….remind me of the Apple Store in NY.
I find more comfort and pride in something like this….’hidden charm’
Colours I added…the rare greenery among a thriving urban/city. Authorities said they are moving the People’s Committee master piece (HQ) out to Thu Thiem (D.2), I guess every other departments will follow….meanwhile…what will happen to D.1 with all the new developments spring up like mushroom every corner. After all D.1 will eventually become the true Commercial Heart of HCMC.
(On the way back to D.1 through D.4)
There are still housing boats, docking along the river…new establishments popping up….white….I guess that stands for something new….white? white wash? Uneven distribution of landscape. Nice urban planning work my friend.
(Testing my colouring skills) :-p
Ending this part is the ‘wash’ and contrast between what is old and new. By the Nha Rong area, bordering D.1 and D.4, there’s a lot of construction going on. I’m not why sure what will be here apart from the massive connection of highway….making the entrance to the city more grand, easier if people were to commute or going from the provinces area, you will reach this end where you will meet the central of the Commercial Hub.
“white’ is in….old and rusty is out…..and Yes the red flag said so.
New artificial coming to town…so scary the trees turns green.
What was that again sorry? My ears are up here, cant hear ya dude!
Watch out…posters are coming….western invasion….they brought families….
Lucky must have been 40ish going 50. He has 2 young children one is 6 years old and the other is just 3 months. Both are girls. His wife said she does not think they will have a boy so she does not want to keep trying for babies despite his ‘drinking’ friends insist to have further attempt. His stories aren’t the greatest and we all think some time he was just bluffing. He likes to be busy, has a lot of hobbies including paintings… To be a tour guide, he said, he had to study at school for a few years and traveled around Cambodia. Very diplomatic, hard working and super friendly, we really enjoy his company during the day and we hope he will make enough money to care for his family – and his wife’s little handy shop.
(uyen’s shot)
Map, on the other hand, is less hard working, we concluded. After taking us early to the temple, he tucked away hiding in a non-agreed area, which made us having to go around and find him. Well he’s not called Map for no reason. Over just one day, we managed to get a picture. He studies tourism at school, speak French and English (though pretty broken), has several jobs, so he has little time and only does his study at night time, and has minimal sleep.
These are things we’ve learned, probably not 100% true but we really like them.
After lunch, we headed to Bayon, and the others around which we all forget the name by now. Again….very very busy area and everyone is trying to get their camera on every possible ‘window’ and statues. A place for worship and festive have a lot of stories to tell, its beauty lies in the multiple Buddha heads looking in all 4 directions.
We made our regular breaks, buying water, eating our saved breads and cookies, at times, Lucky would make us walk the long way out and also kind enough to have our rests along the way. Before heading to absorb the sunset, we passed the Angkor Thom area.
On the way, Lucky slowed us down and pointed at this beauty. I took the colour out to give it more edge. Lucky said they are having sex…we all laughed and thinking how the heck he he spotted the damn thing, it was too small. Maybe he has the ‘attention to detail’ gene, the skills he would need to do some cravings in the weekends.
Angkor Thom was a great city, so was the Angkor area, its empire and civilization I guess.
5pm: the crowd started to pour in around the hillside to catch the sun down. It’s a short walk up the hill and to be honest we all felt it was too much rated. So here is Dan….pose before we headed to the final and last stop.
We had a great time with Lucky and Map. We had a great time with the temples….Night fall we each reflect of the day and felt like we did not take it all in, there might be more wonders to see???
The next day our ride to the river on the tuk tuk passing the country side land reminds us of how untouched, untamed the place still is….until when modernity and civilization take away what magical about this land? Let’s hope not.
I said even at 5am there will still be people. He tried to deny it.
Lucky & Map were on time. It was rather dark on the Saturday. We were well too ready for Angkoring & temple-ing. Packed with the hotel breakfast and our own food, a torch, Lucky our tour guide and Map with his tuk tuk, a scarf as it was windy that early. Off we went.
It was in deed very windy on the way. It was dark and the thought of going to such a holy place in this hour gave me the chill. Shadows of tree and we could not see a thing. We arrived and a lot of people also did. Yeah Dan I told ya…people WILL wake up to see this Wonder…even if they have to wake up at 5am on a Saturday.
We tried to keep going on a straight line or fall off to the man-made ponds on both sides on the entrance way to Angkor Wat, our first step. Lucky took us to sit on the pavement high up on the left hand side. Patiently we waited Then around 5:30am, flocks of tourist poured in, noisy…yet all came and waited for that magical sunrise. Of course a fool would leave his camera home and yes many come in deed, in a very very serious mood and no one would miss this photo taking opportunity. Even the Jap old woman sitting next to us….showing off’ her son victory ‘ see my son can take the picture….see you can too’. Well good for you mother.
I guess the sunrise and the anticipation were too much to grasp I didnot know how to take the pictures and here is what I did.
And as Lucky suggested…we moved to yet more man made ponds to get the reflection…as usual it was a popular crowded spot…so I was again confused in front of this magnificent beauty until Big C told me to flip the pic up side down…during the development process
As the humble sun rose from afar and gave us the energy for the day…..we continued our journey. First stop Lucky made us listened to his story about the fight for a wonderful beauty between some old god legend and started to explain the drawings on the wall. We were all curious and admired the detailing of such skilled craft and efforts of the ancient world ….. lost in the wonder. We also visited the 1000 Buddha area where there is now none left as they were all stolen. Then we walked around the area in the freshest air of the day…we finished the Wat by 8am with the ‘Churning of the Milk’ re-build piece.
My overall observations for the infamous Wat were that it is extremely breath-taking to have such a huge yet attention to detailed ‘tomb’/temple built by what was once a powerful and mighty empire. The architect is very logical and practical. Back in the days, the place would have been packed with loyalties and common people come to pray, celebrate and experience the power of religion and beliefs yet its design allows a natural and effective ventilated wave of air blow in through big square windows all along. Also the ’squarie’ boxy design, in my interpretation, makes it easy to control the crowd and yet like a maze it lures people in – a feeling of mysterious and respect. Although the king’s deceased body and tomb are no where to be seen, the Wat was also a place of worship and they do like to dance, a lot. I recalled what was written in the Lonely Planet about the entire place being covered by nature once. Now it’s spacious but without any signs of major landscape being invested inside such a holy place.
Lucky tried to tell us many tales and stories, quite frankly I dont remember much of it what I do realise is it’s not the Chunk of the Milk but rather Mud…colour looks like milk so they briefly translated it like that and of course you must have Buddha/God and the Devil….on both side hen the art of balance.
For once I soon realized that I could not take many pic with the lens I have, a wide angle would have been great. So I found the comfort in taking pics of my friends – having fun in the Wa.
We tried to stay away from the crowd as much as we could, so we decided to head for Ta Prohm instead. Yes the ‘Tomb Raider’ one, one of the most infamous temple complexes. It was once called I believe ‘jungle temple’ where all the massive, giant long and tall and BEND trees like to lean on the temples and become part of it. Lots of conservations and re-construction work being held on this site with the technique of something begin with ana and ends with losis, in shorter terms they use the old materials from these sand stones and mix with new artificial materials. A lot of the temples in this area are well… collapsing and falling apart. Green, a lot of moldy green grown onto the surface now. I did not know the entire area was used to be painted with red. Unlike the mighty Wat, hallways are lower around here, narrow walkways which demand your respect and careful to watch your head. I suspect there was more bows here than back at Angkor Wat.
The area is small, I think those who work on it trying to establish stable walkways for tourists to view the site….enough to see loads of stone are stumbling on each other, out of shape, almost one cant make much of it…what is left and what used to be. So the place was busy. I guess with only 10% of the tourist money inject into the ’saving’ effort, they wont need to make things more or less comfortable. Everyone tried to pose and snap around the area, rather a lot. I asked Lucky why trees in this area tend to grow ’round’ they bend as they reach the top height. He just replied simply…just those in this area…the trees are naturally like that…it has nothing to do with the soil. All of the moments, I found this snapshot where I truly love….Uyen’s impression of the stone….perplexed or purely annoyed by the sun or perhaps she was trying to ‘figure’ the wonder out or she hated it since I always asked her to stand underneath the glaring sun.
(with a bit dreamy treatment)
Next step: Ta Keo – the unfinished temple no carvings, left, alone after the king saw lighting striked and believed it to be doomed. We did a lot of climbing here, very steep steps yet once we reached the top, a breath of fresh and cool air greeted us. Although I must say climbing up can be very nerve cracking here, there’s nothing to lean on and the steps are as skinny as Korean chopsticks.
Here is a climber
As this point, normally people would head back to town for lunch but we tried to stretch just a bit more. We conquered Preah Khan, the scared sword legend. It was a bit of a walk, much like Ta Prohm, there’s a long entrance way lead to the temple, tourists might find some ‘musicians’ those of victims from mines entertaining along the way. I however, particularly enjoyed the drive through these wondered gates…
As we made our way out for a noon break…I asked my models to yet pose again under the sun. They did of course have sunscreen on.
8:30am the bus started to run. Full of mostly locals…going from Phnom Penh to Siem Riep. Half of them stopped along the way and more come on in to reach the final destination. The driver was accompanied by a small kid, I guess he was around 10. We must have been on a regular local bus rather than the touristie one. They had Cambodian comedian dvd playing and the stops are very ‘regular’ and yet odd. They never really bother announce to you ‘Here is where you can pee’ or’ Let’s stop for lunch’. They just do it, I guess it’s a regular route.
We were on a steady speed….in other words, the driver was careful. But I could not help but notice there wasnot much traffic on the road from the capital to SR. Odd….and the road is generally empty. If the driver need to pass, he would not move back into his land right away since the road was more or less ‘to himself’. The countryside along the way was pretty much like what you would see going to the Mien Tay or Mien Dong back home. I hate to compare but that is what it felt like. Not many houses….and they still have ‘tax free’ refill gasoline if one motor should need a countryside version of a modern day gas station.
We reached Siem Riep on a windy afternoon. Part of the city is very dusty, partly of the on-going construction of modernity and partly I dont know why. Our hotel is in the little ‘hem’ and was so kind to prepared our 4:30am breakfast kit for the early Angkor sighting. It was by accident that we found our tour guide Lucky. The tuk tuk driver Map (it actually sound like that and in Cambodian it means big – funny) who overheard our ‘English’ conversation about visiting the temples, offered the service, tuk tuk drive plus the tour guide for a day. However if you were not sure whether he would turn up at 4:30am, head to town near the central market there’s normally a small car/van with advertising loudly on the vehicle offering tour service by locals also, speak great English and operates on a small scale tour.
A stroll down the ‘central’ touristie area was fun. Streets name here are very odd only called by number and the awfully obviously ‘pub street’. The area is much like Pham Ngu Lao with a bit more class, and less ‘chicken’. Filled with bars, restos, western bakeries, massage places, and the 1USD street stall (like in Ben Thanh market). Everything is literally 1USD. Our Cambodian BBQ place was not that filling so afterwards we decided to try street food.
I think before one arrive in Siem Riep do read a bit on the place. Lonely planet is a good start but its recommendation on food is not necessarily great. We did appreciate the recommendation to try the Cambodian BBQ where you have game meat like snake, kangaroo, crocodile grilling while the surrounding area of the ’stove’ is filled with water to boil vegie n noodle, I just dont think these food are authentic of what daily Cambodian would eat. Do try the draft Angkor beer though, very easy to drink and less bitter than Heineken or Tiger, only 50c, in a big glass after a tiring day….it’s worth it.
Knowing that we will need to wake up like around 4am, we called it an early night but I am sure one could party on around the Pub street with lots of bars, and pubs or bargain their way in the market to buy some materials like I did….fabric to decor the house with or the infamous scarf – great for gifts. Although I do find in the market you must bargain more than half the price, sometimes a nice handmade souvenir shop across the street would sell pretty much the same thing for the same price as in the market. Be wise.
I like Siem Riep. Its more relax, wild, and yes a bit touristie but the air seems fresh and the place seem holy somehow. Esp I know the next day I’m about to embark on a very holy route….date back to the 11th Century even.
(why is that ‘they’ took bad pic of me but not the other way around?)
The best bargain in my 4 days to Cambodia was the 5USD Lonely Planet Guide. In P. Penh, we come across the street kids selling those touristie items….He wanted 8USD for it. We (3 of us) refused and bargained our way down to 5. The kid would not agree. Paused. He suddenly propose to us for a game of rock scissors bag. His rational if we loose 8USD is the price to pay. My best friend was on our behalf, 2 wins out of 3 and the kid kept being pretty persistent.
Our 5USD copycat went a long way. I did at the end gave it away and thinking I gotta get a real copy. After all a good book should worth more than 5USD.
We all took Thursday and Friday off and set foot on a short journey to the ‘land of wonder’ – Cambodia claims itself. Our first stop was Phnom Penh. I was in the city early Jan 2009 so I took the chance to become the ‘tour’ guide for my friends. We arrived around after lunch at the Pavilion and cramped into a room with double bed and 1 extra bed. Immediately we were ‘room serviced’ with 3 glass of lemon juice and 3 fresh cold towels. It was good of them but then they did not come back to clean it up. Odd.
We had to skip the palace and headed for lunch at Friends first, then off to National Museum. The place remained unchanged with all the display of what was a might kingdom of Khmer stretching from Burma, Thailand, Vietnam, Lao. And its civilization artifacts and aftermath are exhibit here at the museum. No pictures are allowed inside the display area but tourist might want to snap around the courtyard. And tourist I meant….some with minimal photography skill.
and here is my Vietnamese Italian friend….totally in black.
We walked along the water front and stopped by Metro for some drinks & my friends listened to me talking history & telling stories….extracted from the Lonely Planet…and of course trying to figure out which is the best way to tackle Angkor Wat….respectably and tactfully. I must say again Im still amazed by the quality id cocktails and drinks there compare to Saigon – where finding a decent cocktail is like catching the moon. Metro is on my ‘regular’ list of P.P now….and so was Amber. I quickly snatched a dark blue floral/pussy shape bag, one pair of earrings and a smile.
It is advised to not eat at Romdeng if they’re too crowded because the food served will be cold, and your order might not come out in time. We did however enjoy the Angkor Beer & tried to remind myself that I’m doing a good cause and I shall not yell at the staff just because the place is full.
We ended the night with a quick ride around the city center on the tuk tuk of course – the best mode of transport there is in town. Back in our bedroom, I cant help but laughed at the ‘useless’ bed mosquito net in the room.
It was short. I mainly visited Boston for my aunt, who lived outside of city – approx 40- 60min train ride, old station it was at Boston. Of course Harvard Business School was the center of attention but I liked the River better. Ah and the park…..something peaceful and quiet about it.
My travel logs and pictures….all over the places….I truly miss it…..back on the road…..it’s great fun…
Now I have my 500d…will snap even more with more pressure…..I hate to take pic of human being….they’re not easy to manipulate….my focus more on ….landscape, architek…..and randomness
